▌ Fashion ▌ Snaps / Baby snaps tutorial 五爪扣教學

學服裝設計的人真的不簡單, 有好多trim 都要知道, 雖然平常在穿衣服都沒注意到, 但是一件衣服可能有多好trim 在裡面, 包括拉鍊、扣子、五爪扣、衣架帶、伸縮帶等等。有時候我真覺得學服裝設計的人要付出的成本很大, 包括打版的工具、縫紉的工具, 還得買布料跟trim等等, 不僅項目繁多, 從設計到車好一件成品也須要花好多時間, 當然現在成衣很普遍, 在外面零售店像是Forever 21 還是 H&M, 衣服都很便宜呢! 有時候真懷疑自己是不是走對行了... 但是, 自己做的衣服好有成就感, 而且可以根據自己的想法來做, 全世界獨一無二! 

好啦! 廢話不多說, 下面是今天要來跟大家分享五爪扣的教學:

It is not easy to learn Fashion Design unless you really like it. Although you might not notice, but one garment can have many trim in it, includes zipper, button, snaps, elastic and so on. Sometimes I feel like learning fashion design cost a lot, we have to pay for the pattern making tools, sewing supplies, and we also need to buy fabrics and trims. Not only the numerous items that we need to lean, but also the time that we spend from designing to making the garment. Nowadays, ready-to-wear is very normally seen, for example, if you go to shopping mall, you will find very cheap clothes in Forever 21 and H&M. Sometimes I wonder if I choose the right career to go with, because this is labor intensive industry, it takes a lot of time and effort to make it but the pay is ok... (you know what I mean) But even though, I still like doing it because I can make something that is unique and special.

Enough for the nonsense, below is the snaps tutorail that I want to share with you:

工具介紹: 鐵鎚、五爪扣(四個一組)、五爪扣手敲工具

Toos: hammer, pear snaps (4 parts per set), snaps installing tools

 

五爪扣裡面是底扣和一個爪扣環, 外面是珠光扣面和底扣

Inside are a ring prong piece and a stud, outside is the pearl prong and a socket

請注意珠光扣面的底扣有分正反面, 用錯面的話爪子就很難吃進去而且也會很難扣唷! 如果不確定的話可以跟裡面那個扣扣看就知道了

Please use the right side for socket, otherwise not only the pearl prong is hart to catch it but also the stud won't be able to match it.

準備好了時, 要先在衣服上做個記號才知道釘哪, 然後把珠光面有爪子的穿到布面上

When everything is ready, remember to mark on the cloth before actually setting the snaps on that. Then put the pearl snap prong piece on the cloth right side.

再來可以使用手敲空具來輔助, 把工具圓形底座放在下面, 然後在上面放好底座凹槽, 用手敲沖對好在用鐵鎚敲打, 可以在地上敲打,但是要墊一層布保護珠光面

And then we can use the tool to set the snaps on. Put the base under pearl snap, then put the socket on, then use hammer to punch the socket into it. You can do it on the floor or any hard surface, but remember to place a fabric under in order to protect the pearl side.

外扣好了之後準備換內扣, 一樣把爪子穿過
Then we can move on the inside, place ring prong on the right place

一樣地使用輔助工具

Do the same by utilizing the snap fastener tool

完成囉! 請看到圖中五爪扣的凸槽及凹槽
Mission complete! Please see the above picture, one is stud and theother is socket.


以上這種的珠光面五爪扣可以在男士的襯衫中看到, 適合比較硬或厚的布, 五爪扣比較好吃住; 另外一種空心的五爪扣可以在嬰兒的衣服中見到

The pearl snaps that showed above can be seen and used on mens shirt, preferably used it on thicker cloth like denim, so it can better stay on the garment. The other kinds of hollow baby snaps can beed seen on baby's clothes.

我是看位個媽媽的網誌學來的唷~大家也可以參考!